Sephora × MAOGEPING: reading a Chinese beauty brand four years before its IPO.
In September 2020 Sephora launched MAOGEPING LIGHT, an exclusive line from the makeup artist Mao Geping's brand. Two months later it asked us what really drove the brand, and how the new line should be talked about.
Can a domestic brand carry a premium Sephora line?
Sephora China had just launched MAOGEPING LIGHT as an exclusive line. The parent brand was known for one artist's technique, his makeup academies and his tutorials.
Sephora wanted to know whether the brand's audience could carry a higher price point, which voices and channels actually built the brand, and where the new line stood in the conversation.
| Share of product engagement | MAOGEPING | Industry |
|---|---|---|
| Highlighter | 23% | 16% |
| Contour and bronzer | 18% | 6% |
The two products that made its name, against the industry average, 2019–2020.
A brand built by creators, on the youngest platforms.
One creator video, then the young platforms took over
Monthly engagement on MAOGEPING's own accounts, by platform, February 2018 to September 2020. Each row has its own scale.
A August 2019: makeover video with 深夜徐老师B May 2020: Bilibili account opens
Source: unrandom, Mao Geping data analytics, November 2020; public platform data. WeChat (under 400 a month) not shown.
View the data
| Month | Xiaohongshu | Bilibili | Douyin | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Feb 2018 | – | – | 21 | 1,361 |
| Mar 2018 | 1,302 | – | 229 | 1,339 |
| Apr 2018 | 652 | – | 196 | – |
| May 2018 | 724 | – | 861 | 101 |
| Jun 2018 | 1,351 | – | 911 | – |
| Jul 2018 | 314 | – | 31,279 | – |
| Aug 2018 | 416 | – | 245,198 | – |
| Sep 2018 | 342 | – | 14,719 | 312 |
| Oct 2018 | 223 | – | 68,434 | – |
| Nov 2018 | 379 | – | 172,779 | 540 |
| Dec 2018 | 54 | – | 73,601 | 990 |
| Jan 2019 | 1,073 | – | 18,364 | 4,030 |
| Feb 2019 | 889 | – | 6,197 | 861 |
| Mar 2019 | 3,113 | – | 6,154 | 2,697 |
| Apr 2019 | 1,854 | – | 11,505 | 6,884 |
| May 2019 | 3,418 | – | 3,163 | 7,849 |
| Jun 2019 | 918 | – | 2,597 | 6,372 |
| Jul 2019 | 1,949 | – | 15,416 | 1,213 |
| Aug 2019 | 107,165 | – | 229,049 | 51,543 |
| Sep 2019 | 28,137 | – | 109,982 | 1,592 |
| Oct 2019 | 18,568 | – | 72,358 | 583 |
| Nov 2019 | 18,649 | – | 35,244 | 3,265 |
| Dec 2019 | 62,015 | – | 37,541 | 2,280 |
| Jan 2020 | 10,775 | – | 12,573 | 3,823 |
| Feb 2020 | 14,505 | – | 7,064 | – |
| Mar 2020 | 15,822 | – | 24,545 | 195 |
| Apr 2020 | 36,766 | – | 10,656 | 4,794 |
| May 2020 | 31,723 | 87,936 | 8,934 | – |
| Jun 2020 | 6,206 | – | 22,516 | 35,986 |
| Jul 2020 | 7,342 | 72,699 | 8,917 | 5,923 |
| Aug 2020 | 67,659 | 193,928 | 22,716 | 1,779 |
| Sep 2020 | 15,321 | 142,242 | 210,574 | 43,935 |
7×
engagement after a makeover video with beauty creator 深夜徐老师 in August 2019. Xiaohongshu never fell back, and the Bilibili account opened in May 2020 became its main driver of engagement within months.
- 1
One creator video changed the trajectory.
A makeover video with beauty creator 深夜徐老师 in August 2019 went viral across platforms. The brand's engagement grew about sevenfold afterwards.
- 2
Xiaohongshu was where it grew.
Posts mentioning the brand there rose from 126 in July 2019 to 537 in September, and its engagement on Xiaohongshu grew 258%.
- 3
Bilibili was the new engine.
The brand's account, opened in May 2020 with makeup competitions between top creators, reached 8.9 million views with seven videos.
- 4
Pride as well as performance.
Buyers praised products made for Asian skin and a widely loved Forbidden City collaboration. Sentiment ran 85–90% positive across Weibo, Xiaohongshu and Douyin.
- 5
The buyers were young and affluent.
Most Tmall buyers were 18 to 34, and two thirds lived in Shanghai, Beijing or the rich coastal provinces.
- 6
The new line was not yet in the conversation.
Two months after launch, mentions of MAOGEPING LIGHT were very limited. It needed the brand's own engines behind it.
Go premium, and lead with the creators.
- R1
"Based on Mao's consumer profiles on Tmall and key social platforms, which indicates first tier cities and affluent coastal provinces, it would support the direction of collab for products of higher pricing point."
The audience could carry a premium line.
- R2
"Mao's key social media milestones were largely made possible through his collab with other makeup influencers; this, again, would be greatly recommended to ensure communication effectiveness."
The sevenfold jump came from one creator collaboration.
- R3
"Xiaohongshu and the newly launched Bilibili have provided the largest growth opportunity … these two should be prioritized; this is also aiming at driving younger consumers to either ecom or retail."
The two platforms where the brand had grown fastest.
- R4
"With training academies across China, and their multiple social channels, they would provide the reach and engagement for product communications, especially when it combines with professional tutorial video content."
Mao's academies already ran their own Douyin channels.
- R5
"Comment sections are great for deeper engagement, turning around sentiment or driving to buy."
The official Bilibili channel was not yet managing its comments.
The record, in order.
Every entry is sourced. The tag names the recommendation it follows; untagged entries are context.
- Jun 2023
MAOGEPING LIGHT is part of Sephora's C-beauty programme and its SEPHORiA showcase, alongside CHA LING and WEI.
R1Sephora release[3]
- Dec 2024
MAOGEPING lists in Hong Kong at HK$29.80 a share and closes its first day 76.5% higher.
HKEX allotment results; The Paper[4]
- Mar 2026
MAOGEPING reports 2025 revenue of RMB 5.05 billion, up 30%. Online sales pass offline for the first time, at 50.5% of product sales.
MAOGEPING annual results 2025[5]
From an artist's brand to a listed company.
MAOGEPING's own published figures; Sephora was our client. We show them as the record that followed our work, not as our results.
Reading a brand by its products and its creators is now one screen in unrandom.
In 2020 this read took a dedicated study. Today unrandom reads every comment by product and aspect, ranks every creator against similar creators, and follows any brand across Douyin, Xiaohongshu, TikTok, Instagram, YouTube and X.
How it works →- Product-level comment topics
- Audience Feedback
- Creator collaboration impact
- Creator benchmark
- Brand conversation across platforms
- Tracking
- 1unrandom, Mao Geping data analytics, prepared for Sephora China, November 2020.
- 2CBNData, MAOGEPING LIGHT launches at Sephora (online 19 September 2020, in stores from October), 23 September 2020. cbndata.com
- 3Sephora, C-beauty programme and SEPHORiA 2023, 8 June 2023. aap.com.au
- 4MAOGEPING, allotment results, HKEX, 9 December 2024 (final offer price HK$29.80; dealings from 10 December 2024). First-day close: The Paper (澎湃新闻). hkexnews.hk
- 5MAOGEPING, annual results 2025, HKEX, 26 March 2026. hkexnews.hk
- 6MAOGEPING, global offering prospectus, HKEX, 2 December 2024 (2021 revenue RMB 1,577.3 million). hkexnews.hk